skellig michael, ireland - early medieval monastic settlement and world heritage site

Our boat left with 12 passengers from Portmagee, along with about eight others boats, for the 12km trip out to Skellig Michael (Sceilg Mhichil). It took about 45 minutes. The sea was "lumpy" rather than rough, the sun shining, we had sea spray flung at us (the skipper handed out waterproofs) and it was an exhilarating ride.

The boats don't actually tie up at this jetty, just pull in as close as they can with a rope round the red jetty rail and passengers jump across as best they can. When we landed waves were still washing across the jetty and a bag which was thrown down so the owner could help people off the boat, was nearly washed into the sea.

The walk up starts off gradually with a wide well paved track (when we were leaving supplies were being driven up on a small motorised cart) and a gentle slope . Once the track reaches the lighthouse people and Skellig guides' cabins (and helipad) it turns into a path, then at the foot of the first serious flight of steps there is a sign which I'm sure warned potential step climbers that it was a steep, strenuous climb, children has to be supervised at all times, everyone must keep to the path, not annoy the puffins etc.

The monastic settlement of St. Fionan at the top is spectacular. The Skellig Guide gave a very good informative talk about the history of the settlement (founded around 600AD), the beehive huts (still in original condition and rainproof), how all heating fuel had to be brought in by boat. The monastery was abandoned in the 12th century possibly because of changed climate with an increase in the number of gales when trips to the mainland were not possible.
Little Skellig in the distance is a bird sanctuary and closed to the public.

Below is one of the alternative routes to the sea - this is the 'aerobic workout' path straight down from the settlement, just handy for nipping down the 670 steps to catch a fish for breakfast - then back up again. More photos of the monastery here and here.

The photo below shows how the settlement is built on terraces, a wall is built and soil brought in to fill the terrace - see the walls top left, that terrace holds the beehive huts.

I visited Skellig Michael about 35 years ago. There were no Skellig Guides or any organisation looking after the place. It is now neater (steps in good order) but seems about the same though some want a hand rail of some sort following a tragic incident early in May this year, before the official visiting season. I go along with the "leave it as it is" camp, it should be without railings or rope.