skellig michael, ireland - early medieval monastic settlement and world heritage site

Our boat left with 12 passengers from Portmagee, along with about eight others boats, for the 12km trip out to Skellig Michael (Sceilg Mhichil). It took about 45 minutes. The sea was "lumpy" rather than rough, the sun shining, we had sea spray flung at us (the skipper handed out waterproofs) and it was an exhilarating ride.

The boats don't actually tie up at this jetty, just pull in as close as they can with a rope round the red jetty rail and passengers jump across as best they can. When we landed waves were still washing across the jetty and a bag which was thrown down so the owner could help people off the boat, was nearly washed into the sea.

The walk up starts off gradually with a wide well paved track (when we were leaving supplies were being driven up on a small motorised cart) and a gentle slope . Once the track reaches the lighthouse people and Skellig guides' cabins (and helipad) it turns into a path, then at the foot of the first serious flight of steps there is a sign which I'm sure warned potential step climbers that it was a steep, strenuous climb, children has to be supervised at all times, everyone must keep to the path, not annoy the puffins etc.

The monastic settlement of St. Fionan at the top is spectacular. The Skellig Guide gave a very good informative talk about the history of the settlement (founded around 600AD), the beehive huts (still in original condition and rainproof), how all heating fuel had to be brought in by boat. The monastery was abandoned in the 12th century possibly because of changed climate with an increase in the number of gales when trips to the mainland were not possible.
Little Skellig in the distance is a bird sanctuary and closed to the public.

Below is one of the alternative routes to the sea - this is the 'aerobic workout' path straight down from the settlement, just handy for nipping down the 670 steps to catch a fish for breakfast - then back up again. More photos of the monastery here and here.

The photo below shows how the settlement is built on terraces, a wall is built and soil brought in to fill the terrace - see the walls top left, that terrace holds the beehive huts.

I visited Skellig Michael about 35 years ago. There were no Skellig Guides or any organisation looking after the place. It is now neater (steps in good order) but seems about the same though some want a hand rail of some sort following a tragic incident early in May this year, before the official visiting season. I go along with the "leave it as it is" camp, it should be without railings or rope.

midwinter (back in australia)

Our frosty foggy winter mornings usually turn into very nice sunny but cool days, some have the bonus of a colourful sunset too.

A frosty spider web with ground frost and fog in the background and below frost on a dead tree. It can get to -5 degrees C (23 degrees F) but it will never snow - we are 100 m (320 ft) above sea level.

cliffs, mountains, the burren

Slieve League, County Donegal - the highest sea cliffs in Europe.

After a visit to Ireland's northern most point, Malin Head, we headed to the west coast, visiting Glenveagh National Park and

Joyce's Country in County Galway.

The Burren, County Clare. The criss cross cracks in this limestone pavement are the home for a very wide variety of plants (75% of Ireland's flora grows here). (more Burren photos)

And below, the Cliffs of Moher, County Clare.

we went north

Cows and calves cause a traffic jam in Antrim.

Derry is a walled city. The walls were built 1613-18 and form about a 1.5km circuit of the inner city.

The Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge. For over 350 years fishermen have strung a rope bridge 30m above to sea to allow them to access the best places to catch migrating salmon.

The Giant's Causeway was interesting and busy.

A nice peaceful waterfall.

The pounds sterling in Northern Ireland aren't like English pounds, at first I thought I had a forgery, the portrait of the Queen looked very odd, then realised it wasn't the queen at all but an imposter. In Northern Ireland the banks issue their own banknotes.

dublin

Fuchsia thrives all over the place in Ireland.

A little 'corner' shop still survives despite large supermarkets not far away.

A garden snail goes for a wander, all that rain keeps everything damp and green.

An hour or so drive out of Dublin is Newgrange. It's a Megalithic Passage Tomb built about 3200 BC (so it is older than the pyramids at Giza). The 19 metre long inner passage leads to a cruciform chamber with a corbelled roof. It is estimated that the construction of the Passage Tomb at Newgrange would have taken a work force of 300 at least 20 years. The passage and chamber of Newgrange are illuminated by the winter solstice sunrise and we visited at summer solstice so nothing exciting happened but we did get rained on while the guide was giving us a brief history of Newgrange. For winter solstice a shaft of sunlight shines through the roof box over the entrance and penetrates the passage to light up the chamber. It lasts for 17 minutes at dawn on the Winter Solstice and for a few mornings either side of the Winter Solstice.